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This hike provides an opportunity
to follow a small desert river along a meandering course that
cuts directly through one of Utahs most interesting geologic
formations: the San Rafael Swell. The San Rafael Swell is a huge
elliptical-shaped bubble in the Colorado Plateau that formed
some 65 million years ago during a time of great mountain building
activity in the American West (known to geologists as the Laramide
Orogeny event). The uplift, or anticline, is some 70 miles long
and 35 miles wide, with the San Rafael River flowing through
its northern half. About half way between Fuller Bottom and Buckhorn
Wash the river flows through a particularly scenic section of
the gorge known as the Little Grand Canyon. Here the canyon walls
rise abruptly over a thousand feet above the river as it meanders
around a finlike obstacle below the Wedge Plateau.
In addition to the hike through
the San Rafael River Gorge there are several other points of
interest in this area that you may want to see before or after
your hike. The Cleveland Lloyd Dinosaur Quarry is located at
the end of a gravel road about ten miles east of Cleveland. This
is one of the worlds most prolific dinosaur fossil sources,
having yielded more than 30 complete dinosaur skeletons since
excavations first began in 1929. Also one of the best prehistoric
Indian pictograph panels in Utah is located beside the road in
Buckhorn Wash 4 miles above the San Rafael Campground. Finally,
if time permits you should drive to the Wedge Overlook, 6.2 miles
off the road to Fuller Bottom. The Wedge Overlook offers a fine
view of the San Rafael Gorge from a vantage point directly above
the Little Grand Canyon.
Day 1
The best way to begin this hike
is to cross the river at Fuller Bottom and follow a jeep road
downstream along the south shore for the first 20 minutes. But
before you start find yourself a strong stick at least 7 or 8
feet long to help with the river crossings. As you walk place
the stick on the river bottom, tilted at a 45 degree angle on
the downstream side, and use it like a third leg. The extra support
is a tremendous help, especially if the current is strong.
After 0.8 mile the road will come
back to the water again before veering away to the south, and
here you must abandon it and try to follow the cow trails. The
wide valley floor is covered with tamarisk trees for a short
distance and getting through them can be a problem with a big
backpack. But dont be discouraged. As the canyon narrows
they become less abundant, and within another half mile the multitude
of cow trails converge into a single good trail.
About 2.0 miles from the Fuller
Bottom Trailhead the trail crosses again to the north side of
the river. This is the second of 15 fords that will be necessary
between Fuller Bottom and Cane Wash, so dont discard your
stick yet. About ten minutes after the river crossing the trail
passes below a small petroglyph panel at the base of the cliffs
on the left. Watch carefully as it is easy to miss. Then, after
another ten minutes, another river crossing.
The next item of interest is easy
to spot: the Sorrel Mule Mine. It is situated about 60 feet above
the west side of the river, at the top of a large pile of yellowish
tailings just 200 yards below the third river ford. A close look
at the area will reveal the rotting timbers of an old log cabin
near the mine as well as dozens of rusted tin cans. Copper was
briefly extracted from the Sorrel Mule Mine in 1898. Amazingly,
the small shaft penetrates some 2000 feet into the mountain.
A mile below the Sorrel Mule Mine
you will cross Salt Wash, a wide, sandy bottomed dry wash that
enters the San Rafael River Gorge from the south, and 3.1 miles
farther you will come to Virgin Spring Canyon. Virgin Spring
Canyon is easily the prettiest side canyon in the gorge. It is
one of the few canyons that isnt heavily grazed by cattle,
and there is a reliable spring not too far from its entrance.
It is an excellent place to make camp for the night and, if time
permits do a little exploring. Unfortunately the trail is on
the wrong side of the gorge as it passes the mouth of Virgin
Spring Canyon, but the river is an easy ford at this point.
Day 2
Before leaving Virgin Spring Canyon
take some time to check out the pictographs. The Virgin Spring
pictograph panel is located about a quarter of a mile from the
mouth of the canyon on its west side. It is high on the canyon
wall, about 15 feet from the ground. The spring is located about
150 yards further up-canyon from the pictographs at the head
of the Virgin Spring Box.
From the mouth of Virgin Spring
Canyon the trail continues down the San Rafael River for a mile
or so before coming to the next point of interest, the Little
Grand Canyon. This is the deepest part of the gorge, a three-mile
stretch of river that lies just below the Wedge Overlook. There
is also another interesting panel of pictographs near the end
of the Little Grand Canyon that you may want to see before continuing.
About 3.0 miles from the mouth
of Virgin Spring Canyon the river swings north in order to get
around a large finlike protrusion in the streambed. The pictographs
lie on the west side of this fin, just below the highest point
on the obstacle and above the point where the river meanders
closest to the western side of its base. Look for a clearly visible
window in the sandstone fin high above the trail. The pictograph
panel is to the right of the window at the base of the Wingate
Sandstone cliffs.
Beyond the pictographs the trail
continues north for 0.5 mile and then swings south toward the
mouth of Cane Wash, where there are still more pictographs to
be seen. The Cane Wash Pictographs are just above the sandy canyon
floor in a small alcove, about 100 yards from the river on the
east side of Cane Wash.
From Cane Wash to the campground
the trail is well used by day hikers. The trail stays on the
south side of the river for the remainder of the hike; hence
no more crossings are necessary. After about 3 more miles the
valley widens and the vegetation is again dominated by tamarisk
trees. 1.5 miles from the end you will encounter another jeep
road which you can take if you prefer, although the trail along
the river is more interesting. The jeep road joins Buckhorn Wash
Road 0.4 mile south of the San Rafael Campground. |